Grilled Head-on Shrimp and Chermoula at Anthology, Perfect Ice Cream at New York Times, and Some Thoughts about Labor

Summer is ending. The food doesn't really say so here in the lush south, but everything else does. Particularly, the light which streams into my studio… more directional, sharper and crisp. It's a beautiful thing, really, but I'm not ready for the huge thrust fall brings. More on that in a bit.

This chermoula, bursting with flavor, is essentially a north African version of salsa or pesto. And, it's my newest story at Anthology. Click here for the full story and recipe.

So good. On these shrimp, on everything prepared for this feature. Really, chermoula is good on everything. Do let me know if you decide to make it. I love to hear when a recipe (or photograph) seizes you.

A couple weeks ago, I had another Page One piece, produced for The New York Times Food section. This time it was ice cream. I produced simple, amazing vanilla. Certainly gave me a renewed appreciation for this humble flavor. 

five simple ingredients is all it takes

Here is the ice cream recipe.

I am on the edge of telling you some big news. It will have to wait until more is clear, but many changes are in store. Thanks for staying tuned!

Eat great food this holiday. Maybe both of these tasty recipes will make it onto your menu. They surely will not disappoint.

Beyond good eating with those we love, I hope in your Labor Day festivities you will make room to appreciate the countless people who toil so hard -  often for pennies a day - around the world.

In the distant past and now again, our economies suppress the value of labor. The rhythmic work of nimble human fingers, day in and out. Bodies which lift machinery over and over, actions repeated at a dizzying pace, or, skills so particular only few can do it. Never mind the repetitive stress those fingers and bodies face…. Young people assembling iPhones in China. Brick workers who are essentially slaves, in Pakistan. Men without safeguards against debilitating injuries in General Motors factories, in Colombia.

Do we value this work? How do we value human labor? In my own world I labor intensely, but thankfully I am (more or less) in charge of how and when it gets done. But no safety net, no built-in room to slow down. I'm working on that….

Of the above, this group has a link where you can offer your support, if you would like to help:

ASOTRECOL - association of injured Colombian GM workers.  These men suffer debilitating injuries from repeated work processes during a time when no safety standards had been implemented in their factory. They have been discarded by GM, with no means or medical insurance to have the needed surgeries, to live healthy lives and get new jobs to support their families.

What good fortune we have to be privileged! And so, what good use a few minutes to give recognition and gratitude to those who help pave the way, who don't get that privilege.

Have a fantastic "sending-off summer" weekend. And then, on to plan the wonderful things we will do this fall. Thanks for being here with me, dear friends. xxx

Flavor-packed Cold Noodle Salad - My latest at Anthology, Zippy Gazpacho with The New York Times, and a Whole Lot More

Crunchy, tangy, punchy, meaty, chewy, spicy. Yep, all that, and almost no cooking to do.

My monthly column at Anthology has been a ongoing affair for two years now (next month!) - how cool is that?!

I made this using somen noodles, shiitake mushrooms, royal burgundy beans, slivered jalapeño, cucumber, Chinese chives, pickled red bell pepper, and mint and cilantro. My choices here serve as a guideline - pictured is an array of possible elements you can incorporate. My hope is that in sharing this as a guideline, it inspires you to play. Experiment with the type of noodles, the pickled and spicy elements. Definitely swap crunchy veg variations to see which harmonize together, and what is freshest at the market. 

These are building blocks to lift-off from and have fun, using your own sensibility and really, what's beautiful when you visit the farmers market. This recipe is one of those I find myself returning to and modifying a bit each time. 

While this seriously tasty preparation takes cues from Asian flavors, this isn't explicitly from a particular culture. More, an interest to eat flavorful food that isn't expensive, and, perfect for picnics on lazy summer days. Though it isn't a saucy pasta dish by any means, don't let the apparent plainness fool you - this dish is packed with flavor.

If you have a few pantry staples - the sauces and vinegar, and pasta - you can make this virtually no-cook recipe without notice. It is a mix-and-match pull-from-what-you-have kind of thing. And the best part? This dish makes for a beautiful presentation and a really satisfying meal for whomever you serve it. 

Cold noodle salad

Serves 4-6

for the noodles

1 pkg noodles, cooked according to the directions on the label 

1 tbsp fresh lime juice

2 tbsp good olive oil

2 tsp fish sauce

1/2-1 tsp soy sauce

1/2-1 tsp rice wine vinegar

allium  

choose one, 2-3 tbsp, divided - finely chop whichever you choose 

Chinese chives

garlic scapes

spring onion

chives

garlic

crunchy

a few handfuls total, a mixture of two or three

green beans, royal burgundy beans, etc
kirby or Persian cucumbers

sweet bell pepper

asparagus

snap peas

green papaya or mango

hakurei turnips

meaty 

choose one - 1-2 cups

mushrooms (any of these is great): button, shiitake, cremini, king trumpet

poached or sautéed fish flaked into pieces, such as salmon or mackerel

poached or sautéed shredded chicken 

cubed and roasted tofu

cooked chickpeas

spicy or pickled - very thinly sliced 

choose two, 2 tbsp (unless you like spicy - then add more)

pickled shallots, onions, peppers, radishes, carrots, summer squash, ginger, cornichons, etc*

sriracha

jalapeño, very thinly sliced or chopped

spicy Japanese yuzu condiment

fresh herbs for garnish

choose two - 1 small handful per serving

cilantro  

mint

parsley

basil

*Store-bought pickle variations work great in a pinch. However, if you make your own pickles, here's a delicious and fun place to incorporate them. 

Cook the pasta and drain. Transfer noodles to a large bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Use tongs to turn pasta, ensuring all strands get a light coat of oil. Once the noodles have cooled enough to touch, add the the fish sauce, soy sauce, and lime juice, and use your hands to gently separate any remaining clumps. Taste and adjust soy (salty), vinegar (tangy), or fish sauce (savory) to suit your taste. Refrigerate at least a half hour, up to overnight. If you refrigerate overnight, cover in cellophane.

For whichever crunchy elements you chose, chop them. If you chose cucumber as one of your veg, peel the skin if it is tough, or if the cucumber isn't organic. if you were lucky enough to score kirbys or Persian cukes, their seeds are small and you can leave them intact. Otherwise, scrape seeds out with a spoon. 

Chop the beans into thin cross-sections -  little bursts of assertive crunch! I got royal burgundy beans a local farmer friend grew. Basically if you can find any snap-fresh bean, then you won't need to cook them. Ask if you can taste one: it shouldn't be fibrous or tough to chew. 

Choose an allium - a little goes a long way. Chop it finely and reserve a little for table-side garnishing.

Trim mushroom stems and halve or quarter any larger ones. Sauté mushrooms in a little olive oil, on medium high heat in a cast iron or enameled skillet until tender - about 5 minutes - adding a small amount of water (or broth, should you have some on-hand) to keep them juicy. Transfer cooked mushrooms to a bowl and toss together with all the above chopped elements once mushrooms have cooled a bit.

On a mandoline, shave jalapeño or ginger (etc), and add to the mix. If you have pickled veg, chop them as you did the beans and add them in. I sometimes add a little of the brine liquid for added punch. Up to you. 

To serve, transfer noodles to a serving platter. I created little piles by coiling the noodles around my hand. Do what fits you in the moment. Scatter the crunchy-peppery-meaty mixture onto the piles, leaving a little extra aside for serving. Additional chopped allium is nice table side, too. 

With a final flourish, add the fresh herbs to top. Enjoy!

If you have not already heard, Anthology will be closing their doors at the end of this year. Of course this is very sad news for me as I have loved our flourishing relationship, the numerous online and in-print stories together and the million emails getting it all done. But as anything in life, change happens. The show will still go on.

I imagine the great homes in my future. New and relevant places to continue sharing my voice. I might even update here more… :P If you have suggestions, I'd love to hear them!

For better or worse, I work like a fiend. My Instagram page bears the evidence. I cook new and varied (deeelicious) things, multiple times in a given day. All this of course is mounting to something fantastic, still simmering and melding....

If you're hankering for more of me, visit me there. I have a lot of fun rescuing food. I play extensively on set. Be forewarned: you will get hungry, stat.

Another piece I recently produced for The Times is this terrific, zippy gazpacho. It is a great basic recipe; one to which I added tequila, lime, and a pinch of salt this evening (in a cocktail glass), to reward myself for all the hard work cooking, styling, and shooting I've been up to.

Yes oh yes. Makes me feel like we are still embarking on summer, not that it is almost over….

I have seen the light change at home base. A longer cast of the sun inside, sign of earth's rotation towards autumn. That will mean the pussycats get to bask in more sun spots, but it also means the end of tomato season. Not yet. But, it's a real thing to reckon with and I'm definitely (and defiantly) not ready.

There is an ice cream story on the horizon. And a pop-up dinner. Then there's the story I shot for Saveur Magazine, about craft cocktails at a neighborhood spot called Lou's. And soon, a trip to Maine filled with lots of lobster. I'm still firmly planted in balmy evenings and icy cocktails, see?

For myself…. today I baked a gorgeous fig, black pepper, and smoky blue cheese galette. I hungrily picked the figs from a neighboring tree near a friend's home, sweet reward in itself after a long three-day shoot. After a final round in front of the camera tomorrow, I get to devour it.

Also on the agenda: making a quail egg and roasted tomato pasta with capers and chives. Sounds good, doesn't it? Visit Instagram to see how it turned out!

Maybe I'll convince someone to go foraging again with me, if I can buy myself some free time. In any case, I will eat like a queen. Come sit at the table with me. Eat some of this good food.

Blueberry Peach Crisp - My Newest Anthology Story, and "Feeding the Fire" Recipes with the New York Times

You know how when summer arrives, you don't want to cook anything? That thankfully, all the food around you is so fresh, sensual, and flavorful, you don't have to? Yeah. Me too.

There isn't any reason to cook peaches and blueberries. Unless you want an outrageously satisfying dessert. And because I'm a sucker for pie and all things cooked fruit (though this is much easier), I turned on my oven during summer in Alabama and decided to give this idea a whirl. So much *Yay* I made that choice. 

I'm sure all my friends who got their morsels after the spoils got divvied up are happy about this too. So will you, if you choose to make this fantastic blueberry peach crisp, the newest installment in my column at Anthology.

Edit: with Anthology now gone, see below for the full recipe -

Blueberry peach crisp 

serves 8

for the fruit:

3-4 lbs tree-ripened peaches - I tried to find organic and it was impossible (see if you have better luck!)

4 cups organic blueberries

1 tsp lemon zest

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 tbsp all purpose flour

pinch kosher salt

for the crisp:

1 1/2 cups rolled oats

1/2 packed cup brown sugar

3/4 cup all purpose flour

1 1/2 sticks pastured butter, cubed and freezer-cold

3/4 tsp cinnamon

2 tsp fresh ginger, grated

pinch salt

vanilla custard ice cream, for serving 

In a large bowl, combine all dry ingredients and stir with a fork to incorporate. Add ginger and butter to mixture and work butter into dry ingredients with your fingers, until pea-sized crumbs remain. Refrigerate.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Stir together lemon juice, brown sugar, zest, flour, and salt. Add fruit and toss to combine. 

Pour fruit mixture into a large baking dish and then spoon oat mixture to cover. Bake until crisp is golden and juices bubble, about 50 minutes. Allow to cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes. 

Great served warm, room temp, and even cold. This fruity number is excellent all by itself and of course is amazing topped with ice cream. This crisp is so virtuous you could even eat it for breakfast…..

………………………………..

To start the meal to which this crisp offers grand finale, these three recipes I produced for The New York Times most recently should do the trick. The coffee-brown sugar-spice rubbed, slow-cooked pulled lamb shoulder is a definite new favorite….

Here are a few outtakes I loved -

bacon making another starring appearance with this iceberg salad 

broccoli is delicious - here is more proof to that truth

this pulled lamb was ah-mazing. make it. see for yourself. 

I am about to embark on a trip to New York. About to have a blissful upstate weekend away. These are things which will provide a break in my day-to-day. Maybe even renewal. Don't get me wrong, I have a lot of fun, but change is good to keep it all perspectivized…..

Also - Oh! Did you see this? 

I'm number one on the list of food stylists who will make you hungry. How cool is that?! Come eat with me. I have food, and we all need to eat. 

If you can't come over, at least follow along with me on the daily fun-slash-food-rescue-missions, over on Instagram. I do try to keep things interesting.

And have a remarkable summer! We all know it's going to zoom before our very eyes…. 

Lift a glass of rosé with loved ones. Eat some grilled squid, a lobster roll, or a bowl of tomatoes dabbed in good mayo. Leave your footprints (and only that, please) on a beach. Revel in the sun-kissed sparkling water surrounding you in a boat excursion, or the mesmerizing fire dance huddled in front of a nighttime campfire. 

Whatever you do, eat good food. Thank you for the love!

Food: Bites from Southern Living Magazine

Though you don't necessarily see it on my blog, I have been shooting more than ever before. The rate at which stories are produced, edited, processed, and turned in to the grid to be put into production is dizzying. The pace is certainly different from the freelance life!

Here are some of my favorites from the past little while. I hope you enjoy....

From a series called "Quick Fix Suppers" - these, from the September issue.

Some images - like these - have plentiful empty space for copy in the layout. Below is the way these apple hand pies ran in print -

Here is another kind of work I often produce. Shot on white, they are cut from the background and dropped into one or another layout....

Here's another from the QFS series, which ran in October's issue. We did two versions - which do you prefer?

Some recipes are available online, like this, this, and this. And, this and this! Search SL online if something intrigues you here and you want to find out more. :)

Here is another story which ran in September's issue. My favorites -

These are part of a brunch story. The veggie hash recipe is here, and the fantastic breakfast pizza (who knew?!), here.

Maybe by now you're hungry. That means we've done our job well.....

Look for more of my work at the magazine, soon. November's issue and Christmas (yes, already) are *right* around the corner!

And..... please look out for more personal work. I realize more now than ever how precious my own voice is, even in the midst of producing impressive and varied work for one of the longest-running magazines around. Stay tuned. xxx