Bicycles and Buildings

If you're like me, when you travel you have your eyes and heart on everything that comes your way. It's like everything is there to be drunk in, one feast after another. As a result I found myself documenting as much as I could keep up with. My love affair with Japan's relationship to bicycles, as well as the interest (and common practice) to create sculptural, other-worldly buildings became its own mini-project along the way. I think you'll understand if I share with you images to go along with my ramblings....

a typical scene tucked into a corner of one of Shibuya's busy intersections

Do you see these men, on their bicycles in slim suits? And the one closest to my camera, with his jumble of parcels so tidily attached on the back of his bike?? Effortless-looking.

Loving the tones and shapes - every day we would cross a pedestrian bridge that overlooked this intersection and I always found something new and fascinating about it...

On our first day in Shimokitazawa, we saw this tricked out bike hanging in a balcony alcove.

On another, we encountered this bizarre back-to-the-future style bike in a store window.

One of the few people I saw wearing a helmet.

This beautiful vintage bike sat near train tracks outside of Kyoto.

 

What great handlebars, never mind the leather seat and that headlight!

There were plenty of other bikes, all made for usability on city streets and sidewalks. In Japan, there are wide enough sidewalks to allow for the passage of pedestrians and bicyclists, or alternately, there are narrow paths alongside car traffic where bicycles and people make their way together. Hands down, people on foot or bike are courteous and looking out for one another. We found this to be the case wherever we went.

A mama and her tyke (check out that happy baby!).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a tricycle hybrid - look closely and you'll see...

Loved this funky detailing.

Elegance & Function!

Those who know me know my partiality to red. See how the bike is set against that stone? Gorgeous.

Together in snowfall, Takayama.

In addition to babies strapped to the fronts and backs of bikes, we routinely saw elderly people traveling by bicycle. 70-and 80-somethings, evenly traversing the roadways on their way to wherever. This made an impression on J and me - I don't think either of us could recall having seen that stateside before.

Then there were the buildings. Too numerous to possibly record, here are some of my favorites.

In Daikanyama, Atelier and storefront; Culinary Institute.

Soaring elements of the massive Roppongi Hills complex.

A Louise Bourgeois sculpture at Roppongi Hills; walkways and a fountain under the steel wheel.

These each made their appearance like moments in a dream, engulfing and caricature-like. Yet their grace was evident, too. A casual presence on tiny street corners and grand thruways, these monuments often shared space next to traditional structures - company to all passers-by - evocative of the many flavors of Japan.

The Art of Simple Eating

If it's one thing the Japanese can do it is to make food shine, simply. My belief is that what they leave to simplicity in ingredients, they more than make up for in their methods of packaging, something special all unto itself (read: another post on that one!). Not that there aren't elaborate displays of food - believe me, I experienced that too - but that in general I found a more elemental approach to food on a plate. Food undisturbed. One evening, we were treated to an izakaya dining experience. My friend repeated, "they don't try to make the food look pretty - it's just good food". This is a no-frills place - simple benches and small wooden chairs provided respite for diners and drinkers fresh from work. Lengths of aged-looking paper lined all of the walls, describing menu options. There was a din of smoking, laughter, and conversation. It felt like a measured carnival and we were happy to be along for the ride.

As we were still putting our belongings aside to settle in, an older lady who served as waitress to the entire place presented bowls of small cooked shrimp dressed in a spicy roe mixture. SO tasty. We began with beer and sake, let our hosts order, and eagerly anticipated what would come next.

Many things followed...

After two plates of incredilbly juicy sashimi, our waitress brought an oyster-cabbage stew; ham + tofu stir fry; chicken bits, tofu, and greens in flavorsome broth (came with it's own side sauce); coconut encrusted oysters on shredded raw cabbage with a dollop of hot mustard + mayo...

the broth, served with its side sauce

  

These two courses proved for the more adventurous - slices of fish liver served over shredded daikon in sauce, and turban shell served with a savory broth, in its shell.

salary women taking a needed break; our dear host slurping the last bits from the shell

My favorite course was ochazuke, which was like a savory rice porridge. The small bits of salmon, the confetti of nori, the warming flavors of the tea broth - it was wonderful.

There were other things I did not capture, like the fiddlehead fern tempura or the pieces of red snapper tails. I can assure you however that each and every thing placed in front of us disappeared quite quickly, and we left pleasantly full from those many small plates and our fill of beer and sake. Out to explore more of Ginza - our izakaya neighborhood - and to see what else the night had in store.

Japan, I Love You

I thought I would share about my journeys as we traveled and as it turns out, I was wrong. Japan swallowed me whole, and I loved every bit of it. (well, maybe not the freezing, toes-numb parts, but more on that later) Our time in this fabled land was richly sensory: visual beauty and bombardment; culinary explorations in many, many directions, most, exceedingly delicious; and lots and lots of walking. We did take trains, buses, and the metro quite a bit, but it was our lucky feet that brought us to one destination after another and all of those treasured points in-between.

After our 14+ hours in a plane and 2 additional in a shuttle from the airport to Tokyo proper, we muscled our luggage to the rental apartment in Shibuya - a youthful, bustling area and a great anchor from which to move about. We got settled in, cleaned up, and then collapsed. And that brings me to our first day. We set out for my favorite nook in this incredible city, the neighborhood of Shimokitazawa, and true-to-memory it remains as vibrant as when I visited it last.

artwork on storefront gate

It was a beautiful sunny day meant for wandering. We were wide-eyed to drink it all in, and one of the first orders of business was to get to drinking some coffee. We found a little corner shop, and as we walked in I was surprised to see a coffee I knew well - the fruity Yirgacheffe that I have loved sipping at spots here in NYC. We got whatever their daily roast was - still brushing up on our *VERY* limited Japanese, we did not attempt to find out what it was. Only that it was delicious and I wished to have more of it. :)

 

cute teapots lined up along the window

 

sitting in the warming sun

photo by Jim Lafferty

Meandering around as shops began to open and bicyclists pedaled by, we came across various things.

fun sp moment!

outdoor restaurant display, weathered design on a large urn

Along another small street, there was a flower shop selling exquisite blooms.

such a thoughtful, smart presentation!

Peeking into various shops and taking our time, we were having a blast. Here's another sweet flower shop we happened upon - and I thought I'd be trudging in the freezing cold, it being winter and all!

We had arranged to meet A for lunch and in retracing our steps to meet with her, I found these - a little table that looked like the beginnings of a produce stand, and someone's refined display outside their home - gorgeous, right?

We dined at a place called Cafe Zinc, an artsy, light-filled space with enough room to remain intimate, even when full. The food was simple and a delight, a mix of Japanese comfort food and western-inspired offerings. I loved how the menu was composed: daily selections could be added or removed as per what the chef could source and wanted to make.

iphone photo, Jim Lafferty

What better way to top off a tasty meal than with a rich cup of joe? This place set a new bar for what coffee can be - we found ourselves measuring the flavor of every subsequent cup to the one we had here. It was a divine experience. Sigh.

The day wore on and we set out again. Seeing this orange tree growing on a corner was a warming treat during the late-afternoon.

We did finally leave Shimokitazawa to find a new area to explore. More on that soon. Our first day was bliss. I hope these scenes help you to enjoy it as much as we did!

Delicious Winter Time

This meal is a winning combination with its sweet-savory juiciness, the tender bite of the bitter greens, and the nuttiness of the soft mash.

My husband brought home some boneless pork loin not too long ago, and I knew then that I couldn't simply make them into dinner without first documenting these precious cuts. So I went to our wonderful farmers' market and selected a bunch of fresh rosemary and a head each of gorgeous chicory and cauliflower to do justice to the vittles waiting for me back home....

Without having a formal recipe, I followed the guide in my memory of how pork loves some sweet + spice. As in apples & nutmeg, or peaches & shallots...and in my case, maple syrup (grade b, less brightly sweet) and rosemary. I also added a tiny amount of soy sauce (use only good quality, here) for an extra kick, and seared them in a hot pan to get them nice and browned.

For the cauliflower mash, I used a half-head and separated the curds into medium-small bunches, placing the lot into a metal basket to steam in my pressure cooker. I don't like to boil anything as most of the nutritional value transfers into the water, so I steam instead, and I even save the leftover water to add to stocks or sauces - thanks, mom! After opening the lid I checked to be sure the cauliflower is soft enough that it gives way when I press a fork into it (if no, I can simply replace the lid - make sure enough water still remains at the bottom of the pot - and turn the heat back on until the knob returns to rattle).  Place the curds in a food processor and add a little chicken stock or the water from steaming,  a little butter, cream, and creme fraiche and give it a whirr. I pulsed the mixture until it was pretty smooth - do so until it's to your liking.

And lastly, the greens! I removed seven or so leaves and rinsed them (and then shake or pat them dry), and sliced cross-ways until I had elegant, thin strips. I heated my small cast iron skillet until pretty hot, added a little olive oil, and tossed all of it in. After letting the chicory wilt from the pan heat for a couple minutes, I turned them about, getting new coverage and repeating the same. All told, they only need to cook for about 4 minutes or so - you want them to retain a little crunch.


Measurements are approximate - adjust to your taste
Serves 4
4 boneless pork loin chops
1/2 head cauliflower - look for no blemishes and tight curds
1 small head fresh chicory or other hearty, bitter greens - leaves should be firm

2 tbsp olive oil, for wilting and pan-frying
3 tbsp fresh rosemary 
3 tbsp grade B maple syrup
2 tsp quality soy sauce

for cauliflower mash
3 tbsp butter
1/4 cup creme fraiche
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 tbsp chicken stock or vegetable water
use sea salt & freshly ground pepper to taste - I put it on everything

As you see I used pork, cauliflower, and chicory. You are welcome to use this as a launch pad and substitute lamb, chicken, or beef in an appropriately sweet-savory complementary dress. Also, feel free to use parsnips, potatoes, turnips, celery root, etc. If you prefer something other than the wilted chicory, you may use escarole, chard, broccoli rabe, mustard greens, or other similar hearty greens. Have fun first and foremost, and let me know how it turns out! :)

One everything is prepared, find a serving dish you like and put it all together. I assure you, it is very hard to resist licking the plate after a tasty dish such as this.

Come Fly with Me

We have officially lived the first week of 2011, and it’s the only time I haven’t gotten a calendar in time to ring in the New Year. That might mean something (please feel free to discuss) but I’m more interested in other things right now… There are many wonderful things on the horizon and the year has only just begun!

The most notable and great news is that J and I are headed to Japan in less than two weeks! We will be photographing a wedding for a dear friend, and making sense – or just fun – out of the layers and labyrinths that are Tokyo. We will also spend some time exploring the beautiful shrines and temples in Kyoto, and hopefully, happen upon a third place as of yet undetermined… We shall see. Having been there before, I was treated to many delightful sights as well as incredible meals (thank you A!). 

This however, will be my first time without a host leading me to all the best places - if anyone has advice in navigating - or recommendations - I welcome them. It will be interesting to see how we fare (sticking out like sore thumbs, maybe?). There is one thing I do know: wherever we go, we will eat quite well!

If January is off to a start such as this, the rest of the year is bound to share fruits even more bright and ripe. Now is the time to cherish these soothing winter moments as we incubate what we want to create for ourselves,  growing more and more as the weather warms and blossoms unfold.