Where I Stand and the Road Ahead

I've been thinking about how to devote more time to writing here, sharing my challenges, adventures, and progress along my path. Of course, it has been nice to be so busy with many wonderful freelance projects. I need that. Gotta bring home the bacon somehow, and batting my eyelashes at a farmer friend isn't going to do it.

Here are some of my favorites from my newest feature over at Anthology. It's a French custard, called a flognarde (and really simple to make)...

 

Since I've been freelance again in an entirely new land, my husband and I have done some fancy footwork to establish stability. I am so grateful for the connections made with - and through - new friends here, and wonder how long this grace will bolster us. I am also grateful for cultivating solid relationships with my clients, and as time has worn on, their belief in me. It has made all the difference.

I know I don't share as many recipes here as I once did. I carry a certain amount of guilt about that, as if I am not taking care of y'all, but I wonder if I'm projecting and if it even bothers you at all. My hope is that you relish the bounty in the step-by-step stories I have been creating in my column over at Anthology - for over 6 months now! - and that their beauty and information (and the link to the recipe, too!) is consolation enough. Check them all out if you haven't seen them already: numbers one, two, three, four, five, six, and now, seven.

What I really am saying is, what do you love that I provide? Are you missing out on things you feel I used to share? Is there anything you want to see more of? I always have a nagging feeling I need to write more. I hide behind my pictures and often hope that's good enough. They speak so well. I am self-conscious of my writing and so, when there's lots of new photography I've produced - like the wonderful recent trip to be with some beloved farmer friends - I plaster it all over and then whisk off to the next project.

Cooking and styling, in addition to my steady shooting - I love this whole picture. I want to share so many moments in food process. There's something about that which is deeply important to me. As a result, sometimes there's less of a volume of work produced, but with a farther exploration into each. I have fun with these stories. I hope you do, too.

So, here's to sharing in all of the "nexts"….

There's housekeeping to be done and writing to do, and a long-term project simmering. Thank you for accompanying me this far, and your support and delight in anticipation for what's to come!

French Rustic Collards, Melted Onion, Mushroom Pie and New Work at Birmingham Magazine

I've been on a pie kick. If you didn't see the fabulous meat pies I made for Anthology, you can check them out here. They're part of my monthly column where I produce, cook, and style - and of course shoot! - the process and results. Every bit yummy. I love my work!!

Since it's winter - it SNOWED here yesterday, and I'm in Alabama! - it is the perfect time for soothing foods. So many of us have been affected by the strange turn in weather, with new concepts like Polar Vortex becoming commonplace. That can't be a good thing....right? But, I was temporarily seized by the snowy wonderland outside my windows as I bustled around preparing this dish.

Inspired by the collaboration between Goop and Food52, I thought to throw a recipe in the hat and see what fun it would produce. I had lots of fun making and eating this delightful pie, and I hope you will, too.

The full recipe is here. I'd love to hear if you try your hand at it! And when the time comes to vote, I'll let you all know. :)


Here now are some of my favorites from my feature with the wonderful ladies at Birmingham Magazine. Asked to produce a lifestyle story about a small Basque community relocated to The 'Ham, I spent a day photographing a delightful couple and their three equally sweet young daughters. Full story - minus the images :( -  here. You can request a printed copy by contacting the publisher.

 

It has been tremendous producing diverse work with such good people. I feel blessed.

There's lots to come, like an extra special story at Anthology. It will debut on Valentine's Day. And more... Join me on Instagram for peeks into the projects as I produce them.  Thanks for visiting!!!

What it is to Farm

It's pretty amazing to know that there are people who dedicate their lives to growing food and bringing that food to the public. On a daily basis, I make efforts to deepen my relationship with the food I consume, and to draw closer the people who provide it for me.

In that vein a couple months ago, I decided to jump in and participate in the work that goes in to growing food for a stand, one at our local farmers market. The experience was wonderful, as you might guess, and also quite humbling.

In my new home, luck has it that I only have to travel an hour in any direction to find great farmers. Our local market is just eight minutes away and rivals my trusty greenmarket back in NYC. On our first trip - the first stand I decided to stop at - I spotted Heron Hollow Farm. I was initially drawn to the gorgeous fruits and veggies, and then to Will, his wonderful wife Liz, and their sweet babe Ava, whose gaze is the intense stare of an old soul.

Each week their stand presents a colorful bounty in-line with the season. We have found (and hungrily taken home): neat piles of heirloom tomatoes; firm, bright, tiny turnips; every color pepper imaginable; bundles of wild greens; potatoes with great names (and even better flavor); firm, dark blueberries; perfectly ripe okra; foraged chanterelles; pastured eggs; and both goat and cow dairy products.

Throughout the years I have learned what great versions of this-or-that vegetable or fruit look like, feel like, and smell like, resulting in some damn good eating. When I honor eating with the season and locate food that is only lightly traveled, I am rewarded with peak ripeness provided by someone who nurtured that food him or herself.

Supermarkets actually rob us of this choice in selling us a wide variety of fruit and veg year-round. Groceries showcase uniformity rather than the uniqueness nature creates, dumbing down our access to the kinds of a carrot or a tomato, etc., we can even be exposed to. The stuff masquerading as real fruits and vegetables in supermarkets is almost completely machined - picked pre-ripened and necessarily flushed with gasses to achieve their rosy hues; shipped hundreds if not thousands of miles and losing flavor and nutrition as a result; and handled by people who themselves are kept on a threadbare existence.

When we buy at supermarkets we vote to sustain the infrastructure that bolsters Industrial Agriculture, including environmental costs like chemical waste in our waterways and burning fossil fuels into our atmosphere. Is that what we want for our future, or even now?

Heron Hollow and countless other small, local farms like it empower us by showing us that heirloom fruits and vegetables can be grown without industrial pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizers.  What started out as a college hobby, and what brought Will and Liz together, has evolved into a holistic approach that would make Joel Salatin proud: animals live happily in their natural ways, work is done largely by hand, and they use tried-and-true methods like compost and permaculture to grow healthy, amazing food. To nourish yourself and your family with the food a small farmer toils over day-after-day is about as elemental as it gets.

Each week, they do the bulk of the work pulling the (literal) fruits of their labor from the earth. For all my years in New York's aggressive hustle, I was set to task in keeping up with their schedule. Will quipped, "we're *reasonable* farmers" when we asked if they start before sun-up....So we toiled from 6 a.m. on, from one chore to the next, and it was a race against the sun bearing down on us all.

Thank you Will, Liz, Ava Rose, Denise, and Brian for sharing of yourselves. You are helping others to grow their appreciation of what it means to grow food.

 

"Ma mere" with Ava, as mama carries food scraps to the pigs

During the hottest hours, we retreated to the "swimming hole," a falls-fed flowing stream

I hope by now you have fallen in love with this pastoral view.

At sundown, the eleven-hour day only represented the beginning. After everyone gathered for a gratifying dinner of herbed goat's cheese, homemade bread, fresh sliced tomatoes, home-smoked bacon, and a veggie stew, the next tasks were to sort and wash the day's take, and complete the evening milking and feedings. This was work carried on into the latest hours of the night, followed by just a few hours of sleep before driving it all to market. And let's not forget: week in and out Will and Liz and farmers just like them oblige many a curious (if not demanding) market patron, with cheer, smiles, and patience, on just the vapors of sleep..... pretty awesome indeed.

We love being reminded of the care put into each tomato sitting on our counter at home. Each morsel is enriched by the relationships we have - and continue to - cultivate. Please support small, local, family farms. You'll eat worlds better and have the satisfaction of knowing that you are directly supporting members of your community. If you want to learn more, here, here, and here are good places to further your own understanding. Share this story with friends, and say "hi" to the folks providing us all with good food.  

Some Fantastic News

I had planned on this being an Easter Egg story. I had some delicious, easy recipes gathered and almost all of the photography complete, when I received the big news. Are you seated? News that we are to move so I can grow a new branch in my work, as staff photographer at Southern Living Magazine. This was a many-month process and with the news now official, we realized we had to tell everyone. We are thrilled. And now, to move ten years of a life and home.

We have innumerable treasured stories from our lives in New York. The many friendships we have cultivated and nurtured, the not-so-savory path of "figuring things out" and taking on New York City day-to-day. Even the subway will have a more fond place for me as we transition to leave (is that even possible??).

Birmingham, Alabama will be our new nesting grounds (it is an egg story, after all). I will share bits from my new life as part of the talented staff at SL, but please be patient as we get settled. There will be *a lot* of boxes to unpack, farmers markets to discover so we can fill our refrigerator shelves, the task of driving to get re-aquainted with....... you know, new roots to grow. So thank you for traveling with me and being so supportive as we take the leap. See you on the other side!!!

Now, for various bits I have been cultivating to-date, and, another giveaway....
Scroll to bottom for recipes-

Shirred eggs with spinach, buttermilk, and ham

Ham Roast

"Buttered Eggs" - adapted from Canal House Cooks Everyday

Easy baked brioche jalapeño eggs

Chili Nutmeg Egg White Soufflé 

Egg Yolk Ricotta Ravioli

Simple recipes you can actually throw together - with a little care - at a moment's notice. For real. And totally delicious! Try for yourself and see.

In other bits launched, I spent some months' time fine-tuning my dear friend Chrissy's new look. We had many back-and-forths to refine things together, and I must say I was extremely fortunate to have such a similarly-minded collaborator.  She is one of the reasons I will miss New York so. Bird of a feather, in addition to swapping stories about delicious food lovingly prepared, I have benefited from her gifted clarity as a yoga teacher for many of my years here. The following are some of my favorites from our work together, along with a few images I shot for the story she produced on chocolate giant, Jacques Torres. 

 

See Chrissy's full story with Jacques, here.

And now for the giveaway!

I am offering BOTH the latest Food 52 Cookbook, as well as The Complete Gluten-Free Whole Grains Cookbook to one lucky recipient. You are likely familiar with the witty style and interesting creations from Food52. I love their weekly updates and am a big fan of their simple, no-nonsense approach. In the cookbook - signed by both Amanda and Merrill - choose from seasonal recipes like late-night coffee-brined chicken, roasted fennel and white bean dip, state fair cream puffs, pastitsio, and heavenly oatmeal molasses rolls, along with a chock load of others. With great mise en place photos and others showing process, and, of course, many drool-producing final creations, you're sure to succeed at some pretty tasty offerings!

From Robert Rose Publishers in Canada, the Complete Gluten-Free Whole Grains Cookbook includes great things like nutritional profiles and preparation guides on many grains, from buckwheat groats to hominy to teff, along with many more familiar grains like amaranth, oats, and rice. This is a great reference tool! Recipes include: almond-flavored millet with cherries, cockaleekie soup (a traditional Scottish recipe), congee with Chinese greens and barbecued pork, kasha and beet salad with celery and feta, amongst many others - 125 in all. Each recipe comes with a detailed chart highlighting its specific nutritional benefits. Pretty cool stuff. :)

To win: subscribe to my blog and leave a comment (with a means to contact you, should you end up the winner) explaining what foods/recipes make you feel happy and satisfied. For an extra name in the hat, follow me on Twitter - @melinaphotos - and leave a note there, and like my Facebook page - Melina Hammer Photography - leaving a comment there. Each comment gets you an additional ticket, so to speak. :) I will add everyone together and pull a name at random. Chances to win this giveaway end at midnight EST, Sunday April 14th. This is available only to continental United States participants. I will announce the winner shortly after, and contact you for your shipping address to send along the books. Good luck!!!

Recipes-

Shirred eggs with spinach, buttermilk, and ham
makes one serving

2 free range eggs
a small pour of buttermilk (around 2 tbsp)
a good handful of spinach - will cook down, so be generous
a few slices of roast ham (see following recipe)
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 cup comte or gruyère cheese, grater
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper
butter to grease the casserole
olive oil for sautéing 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). In a small skillet set on medium heat, pour a glug of olive oil and sauté the garlic until fragrant, about 2-3 minutes. Add the spinach and stir around once the greens begin to wilt. In all it should take about 7 minutes tops. Remove pan from heat. Grease the casserole and line the edge with the ham. Scoop the spinach-garlic mixture into the center, and pour the buttermilk over. Season with s+p. Sprinkle a little of the cheese, then crack the eggs into the center. It can be helpful to hollow a couple wells for the eggs to nestle into. Finish by adding most of the rest of the cheese, saving the last bit to sprinkle as it comes out of the oven. Place on a baking tray and bake for 17-20 minutes, or until the whites of the eggs are set. Add more s+p to taste and one last scatter of the cheese, handle carefully with potholders, and serve.

Roast Ham
serves 18-20

18 lb smoked free range ham, ham hock cut off and saved for another use
2-4 cups apple cider
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup brown sugar
spicy mustard for serving

Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F) and remove all but lowest rack. Score the surface of the ham in 1-inch spacing, first in one direction, then turn the ham a quarter turn and then scored again. Should make a diamond patchwork design. Place ham in roasting pan and then slide it carefully into the oven. Pour enough cider to fill bottom of pan. Roast, checking in 15-20 minute increments, and refill bottom of pan with cider. This keeps it from burning and smoking up the house. 

After roasting for 1 hour, in a small saucepan over medium heat, stir to combine honey and sugar until sugar has dissolved and the mixture becomes a glossy, thick liquid. Remove ham from oven and paint the honey-sugar glaze all over. Replace in oven and roast for another half-hour and then remove again, painting glaze all over once more (you may need to reheat the glaze, as it will thicken when left to sit).

In all, the ham should roast for up to 2-2 1/2 hours, and be golden and caramelized when done. Serve the pan sauce beside after draining off the fat, along with spicy mustard.

Easy baked brioche jalapeño eggs
makes 12

12 pull-apart brioche dinner rolls
4 free range eggs
6 slices bacon
1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced on a mandoline
1/2 cup mascarpone
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

Use a small serrated blade to hollow the centers out from the rolls and save for another use (like croutons or bread crumbs). In a bowl, scramble the eggs with s+p and the jalapeño slices. With a butter knife, slather mascarpone on the insides of the rolls, then set each a few inches apart onto a baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Eye the length needed for the bacon and line the rolls, trimming to fit. It is okay to have a few small pieces overlap - tastes great and looks just as good. Pour the egg mixture in slowly. If any overflows, scoop it up with a rubber spatula and try again. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until there is no jiggle when agitated. Allow to cool for 10 minutes and serve.

Buttered Eggs, adapted from Canal House Cooks Everyday

as many free range eggs as you think you'll need, then add a few extra - these will go fast!

Toppings can include (feel free to get creative here) -
torn ham pieces (great to use some leftover ham for this)
sliced Dutch matjes (a DELICIOUS fresh herring from Holland, I got mine from Russ & Daughters)
sliced sable
cucumbers, sliced very thinly on a mandoline
wild salmon roe
wasabi flying fish roe
crème fraîche
good mayonnaise
fresh dill
fresh chives

Fresh eggs do not peel easily once hard-boiled, so plan accordingly and use eggs that are 1-2 weeks in your refrigerator. In gently boiling water, lower eggs into saucepan. Eggs should be in a single layer, with about an inch of water above them. For soft, custard-like hard-boiled eggs, cook for no more than 9 minutes. Drain, running cold water over eggs, then place in a bowl with cold water in refrigerator until cool enough to handle. Tap on counter surface and begin peeling at rounder end, where the air pocket is. Once peeled, rinse off any shell bits and cut into halves. Set aside.

Prepare slices of any of your toppings as appropriate and chop or tear herbs. Smear or spoon the mayonnaise or crème fraîche, followed by fish or meat, followed by roe or herbs. You can also prepare small bowls of each topping to allow guests to make their own, which makes a festive, pretty presentation. Enjoy!

Egg Yolk Ricotta Ravioli
serve 2-3 ravioli per person

wonton wrappers
egg yolks from very fresh free range eggs
ricotta cheese
freshly grated nutmeg, if you like
pink Himalayan sea salt
freshly cracked pepper
fresh chives, cut on the diagonal
freshly grated grana padano or parmesan

Fill a large pot with water and season generously with salt. Heat on high to bring to boil. Meanwhile, lay out a number of wonton wrappers on a clean, dry work surface. Create a ring of ricotta in the center of each wonton. Sprinkle with the sea salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Carefully lower an egg yolk onto each ring - it is essential that they remain unbroken or you must re-do. Wet the edges of the wonton with water and press a second wonton over top, sealing the edges. You will need to crimp or pleat in places, in order to gather the surfaces and seal them properly. Repeat until you are finished with however many ravioli you have decided to make. 

Lower each ravioli with a slotted spoon into the gently boiling water. After a maximum of 2-3 minutes, lift ravioli from water with slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper. Place onto serving dishes, grate cheese on top, and scatter with fresh chives. Serve with a green salad or steamed asparagus.

Chili Nutmeg Egg White Soufflé - from my mother
serves 4

2/3 cup parmesan, grated and divided into 1/2 cup and the remainder
1 cup grated gruyère cheese
3 tbsp butter, plus more to grease ramekins
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
egg whites from six free range eggs
1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp cayenne
1/4 tsp chili powder
good pinch of freshly ground pepper
1/4 tsp cream of tartar

Grease four ramekins. Sprinkle parmesan inside and turn to coat all surfaces. Empty out any remaining into the next, and repeat until all ramekins are lined with parmesan. Place in freezer. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt butter and add flour. Stir to combine and for three minutes continue stirring, cooking roux. Gradually add in milk and stir continuously, bringing to a boil. Lower heat to simmer and cook for a further 2 minutes, stirring, and add in the nutmeg, chili powder, and cayenne. Remove the pan from the burner, stir in 1/2 cup parmesan, and transfer to a large bowl.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until they hold stiff peaks. Fold in 1/4 of the whites into the sauce. Fold in the remaining whites, along with the gruyere, until all are combined. Remove ramekins from freezer and place on a baking tray. Spoon mixture into ramekins, leaving 1/2-inch space from top edge, and top with the remaining parmesan. Bake the soufflé for 30 minutes or until puffed and golden. Serve immediately. 

Happy Easter everyone!!! xxx ;-)